[遊記] 歐若拉,美麗的錯誤。(挪威/極光)

作者: wangchinmao (吉他手~泡泡)   2015-02-26 04:18:30
網誌圖文版:http://paulinfr.blogspot.fr/2015/02/narvik.html
在這篇文章,我將會詳細分享「追極光的相關一切知識、資訊、拍攝技
巧」。
In this article, I'll share with you "The knowledge and
information and photography techniques about chasing auroras" in
detail.
Fantasy one.
感謝這個美麗的錯誤,讓我遇到她—歐若拉。
Thanks to the beautiful mistake, I met her, Aurora.
為了追尋極光,我看了一堆資料,不知幾天幾夜沒睡,於是挑了挪威的
「Tromsø」以及瑞典的「Abisko」作為追尋極光的城市,其實說村莊比較
像。但是,當我訂完旅館開始訂車票時,我發現「Tromsø 無法直達
Abisko」,「Tromsø沒有火車」!悲劇啊~於是最後我緊急加訂了 Narvik
的旅館,並將 Abisko 旅程縮短一天。關於 Tromsø 跟 Abisko,那又是更
多的故事了,就留在改天吧!
For chasing the northern lights, I read a lot of information for
days and nights, not tooth paste. At first, I chose Tromsø
(Norway) and Abisko (Sweden) to approach her. But, there's always
a BUT. After I'd booked every hotels and started to book the
traffic tickets, I realized that "You cannot go directly from
Tromsø to Abisko" and "There's NO trains in Tromsø." What a
tragedy! After all, I booked an additional hotel in Narvik and
cut a day of Abisko. About Tromsø & Abisko, that's lots of
stories, save for someday in the future.
簡單的說,你必須搭巴士從 Tromso 到 Narvik,再從 Narvik 搭火車到
Abisko。
Simply say, you have to take bus from Tromsø to Narvik and
transfer to a train to Abisko.
從 Tromsø 到 Narvik 的巴士班次非常少,一天 2~3 班,在規劃行程時要
先查清楚時刻表,不然就搞笑了。
The only way to go to Narvik from Tromsø is taking a bus which is
in a really low frequency, 2-3 bus / day. When you plan the trip,
you must check it out, otherwise, something interesting will
happen.
我住的旅館是「Breidablikk Guesthouse」,當初在 Booking.com 看到旅
客評價說位置很好,二話不說就訂了。單人房 71 歐/晚,房間乾淨舒適,
附早餐,十分不錯的選擇。從我窗戶往外看,Narvik 盡收眼底。
The hotel I stayed is "Breidablikk Guesthouse." I found it on
"Booking.com" and saw the messages , "The location is great!" from
other guests then I booked it without hesitation. It was 71 euros
per night for a single room, the room is clean and cozy, breakfast
included, really nice choice. I can see the whole Narvik from my
room.
View from my room.
放完行李,我開始探索這個小城市。Narvik 出乎意料的美,抹殺了我不少
底片,呃記憶卡,但不想讓篇幅太長,只好忍痛割捨一些。
After I'd settled down my luggages, I started to explore the
little city. Narvik was much more beautiful than I thought, she
killed a lot of my films, uh, spaces. In case of an overlong
article, I have to give up some.
A church.
碼頭。
Dock.
2 men was fishing for dinner.
So beautiful.
The light and reflection.
The image melted me.
「偶們私奔吧!」
"Let's elope!"
The sky was just like a painting of Monet.
就算沒有看到極光,光看這些景色也非常夢幻。
Even if you don't see the northern lights, the scenes are still
awesome.
前兩天,在 Tromsø 都吃不太好,於是我在 TripAdviser 上找了間看似還
ok的餐廳「Amalia」準備進行一個晚餐的動作。到達這間店之前,經過了速
食店,讓我有進去吃的衝動,還好我忍住了
The previous 2 days in Tromsø, I didn't eat anything good so I
found a restaurant on TripAdviser named Amalia. Before I reached
Amalia, I passed a fast food shop and I used want to get in.
Hopefully, I holded back myself.
菜單是挪威語還是啥鬼的,我看不太懂,也有一份英語菜單,但看起來就少
很多餐點。於是不管三七二十一,看著挪威語像是菲力牛排的給他點了下
去。
The menu was in Norwegian, I didn't know at all, also they gave me
an English menu but it looked short of many choices. So, fuck it,
I ordered something looks like "fillet steak" in Norwegian. And
it really was.
重點是,好吃到爆炸啊!!!屏除米其林一星的「Gastrologic」,大概是
我這次10日遊最好吃的一餐。
Point is, it tasted so good. Except the Michelin 1 star
restaurant, Gastrologic, it was the best meal in my 10-day-trip.
那,說好的極光呢?
Well then, what about the aurora?
還沒,先讓我秀一張夜景。
Not yet, let me show a night view pic first.
為什麼這麼愛現?不,這不是我愛現,哥是個低調沈穩成熟內斂的男人,夜
景是為了銜接整個故事,發揮承上啟下的作用啊!
Why do you so like to show off? No, It's not showing off. I'm a
low-key, calm, mature, and restrained man. The pic is to link the
whole article!
正當我在隨便亂拍夜景的時候
When I was randomly shooting for night views
I found something...
Could you see?
OMG!立馬把衣服亂穿一通就帶著相機衝出旅館!
OMG! Then I dressed in a hurry and brought my camera rushed out
of hotel.
極光就像是傾瀉在天幕。
The auroras were just like being poured on the sky.
我沒帶腳架出國,這些照片全是靠我的「人肉腳架」支撐,所以有些可能會
有些模糊。但仍然不減其魅力。
I didn't bring my tripod abroad. The photos were all shot by my
artificial-tripod so some of them might be a little bit vague.
But it won't lower the attraction.
「何時可以看到極光?」
"When can I approach to the northern lights?"
依照國家不同,看到的時間可能不同,通常最佳月份大概是 11~2月。
According to different countries, the time may be different.
Generally speaking, the best months are about November to
February.
「哪裡可以看到極光呢?」
"Where can I see the northern lights?"
理論上,在南北緯度67度附近的兩個環帶狀區內,都可以看得到。Alaska
的 Fairbanks 號稱一年有 200 多天有極光;在歐洲的話,則可考慮北歐各
國,如 Norway、Sweden、Finland、Iceland 等。
Theoretically, in the two zonal areas of 67 degrees north/south
latitude, you can see the lights. They says there's more than 200
days per year you can see the lights in Fairbanks, Alaska. In
Europe, you can go to North Europe, such as Norway, Sweden,
Finland, Iceland, etc.
實際上,天氣很重要,這也是為何我排了五天給極光。除了陰晴不定的天氣
以外,地理氣候也是重要的考量因素,這點在其他網誌都沒提到。沿海地區
水氣較重,很容易有雲霧產生,甚至下雨下雪,都不適合看極光。我當初看
了一篇地雷網誌,說 Tromsø 最適合看極光,結果我根本是去看雪個人推
薦 Narvik 跟 Abisko。
In fact, the weather is extremely important, that's why I set 5
days for the Aurora chasing. Except the weather you cannot
control, geography climate is also a critical point but no other
blogs mention it. The coastal areas have high humidity, it will
become fogs or clouds, or even rain and snow, really bad for
chasing the northern lights. I had read a stupid blog said that
Tromsø is the best place for the lights. No, I saw more snow
there. Personally recommendation, Narvik and Abisko.
「我需要哪些設備?」
"What gears should I prepare?"
各種攝像設備,(遙控快門),(三腳架),人品,衣服,耐心。
Anything can capture image, (tripod), luck, clothes, patience.
遙控快門很重要,我忘了帶原本想說可以用手機連線遙控快門也一樣,但氣
溫-20度時,你就不會這麼覺得了,因為用手機遙控需要脫手套!
Remote shutter is really important but I forgot to bring it. I
thought I can use smartphone connecting the wifi of camera and
remote as a remote shutter. NO, totally not, when it is -20
degree and you have to take off your gloves to use your phone, it
will drive you crazy!
有三腳架的話,各種喬角度很方便,而且提供長時間曝光需要的穩定性。沒
有的話,就要用背包或環境調整需要的角度。
With a tripod, you can easily adjust the angle and provide
stability to long exposure. Without a tripod, you have to use
your bag or the environment to set the angle you need.
人品,應該不需要多解釋,多點幾點技能點吧!
Luck, is what you really need. Invest some skill points on that.
人品好的話,肉眼就可以清楚看到極光,手機隨便拍就能拍出來;人品一般
的話,需要用比較好的相機才能有較好的成像品質;人品差的話,就是一直
下雪。
If you're lucky, you can see auroras by eyes and take photos by
your phone; if you have only a little bit of luck, you have to use
a better camera to take good shots; if you're unlucky, it snows
all day long.
衣服攸關你能拍多久,有越久時間就越有機會拍好照片。
Dressing decides how long you could stay out, the longer you stay
out, the more opportunities you can get a good shot.
我的穿著是這樣的:
Here's what I wear:
1. Go Sports 遮耳帽。
一定要能遮耳朵,不然耳朵掉了都不知道。挪威可買到。
1. Go Sports fur hat with ear flaps.
You must keep your ears warm or you may lost them without feeling.
You can buy in Norway.
2. Paul Smith 圍巾(100% 羊毛)。
2. Paul Smith Scarf (100% Lambswool)
3. Ralph Lauren 背心內衣(100% 棉),Odlo長袖內衣(45% 羊毛),
Father & Son 長袖毛衣(100% Cashmere),Tommy Hilfiger 羽絨背心,
Armani Collezioni 大衣(100% 羊毛)。
內衣也可以到挪威再買,我看那裏有賣 100% 美麗諾羊毛內衣價格比我在法
國買的 Odlo 長袖內衣便宜。怕冷的話,最外面可以換成羽絨衝鋒衣。
3. Ralph Lauren vest underwear (100% cotton), Odlo long sleeves
underwear (45% wool), Father & Son long sleeves sweater (100%
cashmere), Tommy Hilfiger down vest, Armani Collezioni overcoat
(100% Wool)
You could buy underwear in Norway. I saw they sold 100% Merino
underwear cheaper than the Odlo I'd bought in France. If you're
really afraid of cold, you can change the overcoat into a down
jacket.
4. Go Sports 秋褲,牛仔褲,Puma 手套,Go Sports 滑雪襪,Timberland
防水靴。
滑雪襪滿好用的,等於小腿再穿一層褲子,而且排汗效果好。鞋子一定要防
水,經常需要踩在雪裡,不防水的話腳可能面臨截肢的風險。
4. Go Sports leggings, jeans, Puma gloves, Go Sports skiing socks,
Timberland waterproof outdoor shoes.
Skiing socks are good, just like wearing extra paints on your
legs. Shoes must be waterproof due to the needs of walking around
in the snow. You might lose your feet without waterproof shoes.
耐心,極光之前人人平等,不會因為你官位高或是有錢就可以命令她馬上出
來。
Patience. People are equal in front of the northern lights. It
won't come out quick as you wish because you have higher rank or
more money.
「相機要如何使用?」
"How to use camera?"
看說明書。
READ the manual.
撇除隨便拍都能拍到的極光爆發,我大概會這樣設定:
1. 快門時間:15 ~ 60秒,極光越弱,時間要越長。
2. 光圈:F 6.3 ~ F 2.8(數字越小光圈越大),極光越弱,光圈只好越
大。
3. 感光度:3500 以下,因為我不想要看照片時過多雜訊,所以寧願增加曝
光時間降低感光度。弱的極光大概用 2500;狀況好一點用 200~800。
Except the aurora explosion that you can shot in anyway, I will
set the camera as follow:
1. Shutter: 15 ~ 60 seconds, the weaker the lights, the longer the
time.
2. Aperture: F 6.3 ~ F 2.8 (The lower number means bigger
aperture.): The weaker the lights, the bigger the aperture.
3. ISO: Under 3500. Because I don't want to see lots of noise on
the photos, I'd rather increase the exposure time and lower the
ISO. For the weak lights I'll set ISO at 2500; for the better
lights, I'll set it between 200~800.
極地火車。
SJ Train.
美麗的錯誤,讓我來到了這麼棒的城市,吃了好吃的晚餐,看了夢幻的極
光。可惜只是短短的一夜情,隔天就上火車繼續旅行囉!
The beautiful mistake let me see the lovely city, eat the great
dinner, and see the festinating auroras. It was such a pity that
only for one night stand and then I had to step on the train for
the followed-up journey.
希望這篇文章能幫助到想追尋極光的人。如果有任何疑問,歡迎留言!
I hope this article can help the people who want to chase aurora.
If you have any further question, just leave messages.

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